The food at my grandparents’ Passover seder was exactly the same every year, eaten as a series of courses with four cups of wine. Chopped liver, hard-boiled egg with saltwater, charoset with horseradish and matzo, matzo ball soup, gefilte fish, brisket pot roast, coconut macaroons, and citrus candies. A classic American Ashkenazi lineup, always served on the same china and table linens. And because my grandmother purchased almost everything from a deli or made it from a box, the individual courses never changed. Veganizing my grandmother’s menu requires making some substantial changes. At the same time, it presents an opportunity to learn about each dish and figure out how to make them on my own.
Me and my Grandma Ruth in her kitchen
This menu is vegan and also does not include kitniyot, which are legumes and other seeds that Ashkenazi Jews traditionally do not eat during Passover. Most vegan Passover recipes ignore the kitniyot restriction (which has been overturned in the Reform and Conservative communities), but I am leaving them out here so that these recipes can be used for any Passover seder. Use olive oil or refined coconut oil, as most other vegetable oils are considered kitniyot. I am not a rabbi or anything like that so don’t take me as your authority for what to use if you’re not sure!
These recipes are designed to work together and employ many of the same ingredients. You can chop a bunch of herbs at once to use for the gefilte fish, matzo ball soup, and pot roast. Potato starch stands in for eggs in a few of the recipes. You can use tapioca starch instead but you’ll want to double the volume. One 11-ounce box of matzo, run through the food processor, should give you 2 cups of matzo meal. Each recipe makes enough for 4 people. Almost everything here can be prepared a few days in advance.
Fresh herbs feature heavily throughout. They add a lot of flavors and are symbols of Passover and springtime, so I suggest sticking to fresh herbs as much as possible rather than using dried ones.
Mock Chopped Liver
Chopped liver is a common appetizer for Jewish holidays and nut-based vegetarian versions have been around for a long time. Adding lentils or beans is a great way to make it creamy, but since they fall into the kitniyot category I have used cashews instead here. This mushroom and pecan paté taste much better when made a day or two in advance. If you make it right after your charoset you can just reuse the food processor without washing it.
1 cup pecans or walnuts (soaked)
1/4 cup cashews (soaked)
2 Tbsp oil
1 sweet onion
1/2 pound button mushrooms
1 clove garlic
1 tsp salt
1/8 tsp mace or nutmeg
1/4 cup dry white wine
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 Tbsp fresh parsley
1 Tbsp fresh tarragon
1/8 tsp kala namak (optional)
Soak the pecans and the cashews for several hours (separately) or boil them for a few minutes, then drain them and discard the water. Bring a skillet to medium-low heat with half the oil and add the onion. Allow the onion to caramelize by stirring it occasionally over the course of about 15 minutes, while you loosely chop the mushrooms. You can speed the caramelizing process up a bit by adding a pinch of baking soda. Once the onion has started to brown, scoot it to the outer edge of the pan. Add the other tablespoon of oil and the mushrooms to the center of the pan and sauté over medium heat until the mushrooms start to brown. Add the salt, mace, and a clove of crushed garlic. Once the liquid from the mushrooms has evaporated, add the wine and let it reduce for a few minutes. Turn off the heat and allow the mixture to cool slightly.
Transfer the cooled onion and mushroom mixture to a food processor with the drained cashews and black pepper. Pulse until it forms a creamy paste, then add the pecans and pulse until they are ground up but still crumbly. Scoop the paté into a bowl (lined with cheesecloth if you want to invert it and serve it as a mound) and refrigerate. Allow it to come to room temperature before serving and garnish it with chopped fresh parsley and tarragon. If you like an eggy chopped liver you can sprinkle it with some kala namak too.
mock chopped liver with matzo
Avocado with Salt Water
The key element of this simple course is a bowl of saltwater, meant to symbolize the tears of the enslaved Jews. You dip a sprig of parsley or some other herb into the water before eating it. Evidently, some families use potatoes as the thing to dip; mine always used hard-boiled eggs. I always hated eggs so I just stuck to parsley. When I went vegan my family gave me a whole avocado with my bowl of saltwater, which was a big improvement. The avocado could be dressed up with some customary greens and bitter herbs into a simple salad: sliced avocado + chopped endive and parsley + sliced red onion, with a ramekin of saltwater for the traditional dipping. This vegan Passover egg also looks pretty fun, if eggs are your thing.
Hillel Sandwich with Charoset
This is the part of the seder where you make little sandwiches with matzo. Inside goes a huge slice of raw horseradish and a smear of charoset, which is a spiced fruit and nut spread that symbolizes the mortar used by enslaved Jews. Charoset is generally vegan. Ashkenazi versions usually incorporate walnuts, apple, and cinnamon. Some recipes use honey, which can easily be replaced with another sweetener. In this charoset, I have adapted a vegan floral apple honey recipe to use the traditional apples in a different way. Depending on when Passover falls and what climate you live in, this might give you a chance to incorporate some springtime blooms.
Charoset:
2 medium-sized green apples, roughly chopped (peels on)
1 chamomile tea bag
1 cup of unsprayed flower petals such as dandelions, roses, elderflowers (optional)
2 Tbsp sugar
1 tsp lemon juice
1 cup golden raisins
1 cinnamon stick
4 cardamom pods, smashed
1 cup walnuts (soaked)
1/4 cup sweet kosher wine or grape juice
1/8 tsp salt
Soak the walnuts for several hours or boil them for a few minutes, then drain them and discard the water. Boil 1 cup of fresh water and steep the chamomile tea and other flowers in it until it begins to cool. Pour this tea, together with the petals, into a food processor with the chopped apples (discard the teabag). Blend. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a saucepan. Feed the strained apple mush to your companion animals. Add the sugar, lemon juice, raisins, cinnamon, and cardamom, and bring to a boil. Simmer until the mixture reaches a thick jam-like consistency. Discard the spices. Transfer the mixture back into the food processor and process until smooth. Add the strained walnuts, wine, and salt. Pulse until most of the walnuts are chopped. This is best made a day ahead.
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